Mon, Nov 2: Dalhousie to Amritsar

A most interesting start of the day.  Tara called for a porter to come pick up her and our bags from the rooms to take them to the car (parked down the hill).  This little wiry man (with a “bellman”) showed up with a rope and a burlap “cushion” on his head.  He looped the rope around one suitcase, placed the rope (cushioned by the burlap) on his head, and stood up.  The other man then proceeded to pile an additional two suitcases and a small overnighter on top of the original suitcase.  Our little porter then picked up one backpack, tried to pick up the other (don’t think he wanted to share the tip) but the other man took it.  Our little guy then proceeded down the hall, DOWN THE STAIRS, and down the long ramp to the car.  AMAZING!!

We then started the not so long drive to Amritsar near the India/Pakistan border.  

Amritsar is the home of the Sikh religion founded in the 15^th century. 

We are staying at the lovely Holiday Inn, assured to be the best hotel in the best location.  (Really Tara?  Holiday Inn? – but as explained, there were no hotels between the top and bottom of the star ratings).  We settled in for a short rest before heading out for dinner and sightseeing. 

Dinner was at Kesar Ka Dhaba, a local eatery that was featured in an Anthony Bourdain episode of No Reservations.  

We were almost done when about 30 or so people came in.  It turned out the family was celebrating a ceremony for a young Sikh boy who was now able to wear a turban (think Bar Mitzvah for the Sikhs).  They were all very friendly and the very proud young man and his family proudly posed for pictures.

We then went to the Golden Temple (Harmandir Sahib – The Abode of God) complex.   It is the holiest Sikh Gurdwara (think Vatican for the Sikhs).  The complex is surrounded by beautiful buildings, most covered in white marble .  

There are four entrances facing the four points on the compass.  The four entrances symbolize Sikhism’s openness to all peoples and religions.  The approach to the main one entrance was through a very large plaza, also covered in marble.

To enter you must put on a head cover (men and women) and remove shoes and socks.  You then enter the main complex by washing your hands and stepping through a shallow pool of water, to be cleansed.  

Inside the complex is an immense pool and in the center is the Golden Temple that is accessed by a long bridge.  The temple is actually covered in gold leaf and looks spectacular.  

During the day the Sikh holy book, Guru Granth Sahib, resides in the Golden Temple.  In the evening there is an elaborate ritual for  “putting the book to bed”.  

While waiting for the ceremony we saw Frank and Linda, a couple from the UK that we had met in Dharamsala.  

The area is cleaned 

and the palanquin (sort of a sedan chair or litter) is elaborately draped with long garlands of marigolds while priests chant through the entire ceremony. 

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The palanquin is then taken to the temple where the book is wrapped and placed on the palanquin and moved to another large building for storage overnight.  

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