Mon, Nov 23: Udaipur to Delhi to Varanasi

This morning’s travel was pretty uneventful with a flight through the Delhi airport on our way to Varanasi.  
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Tara got us box lunches from the hotel (dry muffin, dry cheese sandwich, and fruit).  We also got box lunches on both legs of our trip.  The first had dry cheese sandwiches, the second had a rather interesting veggie burrito (looked like tuna salad but definitely veggie) and a very good brownie with walnuts on top.

Having all had our fill of box lunches we didn’t need lunch so, upon arriving in Varanasi we immediately headed to the hotel to check in.  After freshening up we headed out for a half- day of sightseeing. 
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The first stop was a street corner near the old section of Varanasi where we boarded bicycle driven rickshaws.  The seats were about 3 to 6 inches too narrow for even the skinny ones in our group.  And they slanted down so you were in danger of sliding forward.  We were instructed to hold on to a side handle and brace a foot on a “seat break” to help you keep from falling off.
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Once everyone was uncomfortably perched in their rickshaw we headed off for old Varanasi.  The chaos in the streets of Varanasi was everything Tara had warned us about.  It was the crowds of Old Delhi on steroids.  And Varanasi skies are just as polluted as in Old Delhi. 
The rickshaw ride eventually ended near the Bazaar where we got out for a walk through the narrow windy streets.  
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We stopped at a clothing shop where Tara bought Jessica a skirt to go with the top she had given her earlier.  
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We then stopped for bangles for Gail and scarves for Jessica and Gail.  Paul liked the walk, with lots of people and different kinds of shops, but could have done with less shopping.
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At sunset we ended up down by the waterfront along the Ganges River.  Varanasi is one of the holiest cities in India and has many Ghats along the riverbank.   Ghats are steps along the riverbanks that allow one to easily descend from the city directly down to the river.  There are 87 Ghats in Varanasi.  Many are for bathing while others are used exclusively for cremations. 

When we got to the river we boarded a boat that at first looked like it was propelled by oars.  However, once we were pulled away from the Ghat the boatman went to a large box in the middle of the boat; opened it to tweak something and then reached down and cranked.  With that the loud and rattly motor started up and we were off into the dark waters of the Ganges.
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Many people were lighting small oil lamps and setting them afloat on the river.
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We settled in just off the Mankarnika Ghats were there were a number of funeral pyres burning.  
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We then headed up river to the Dashashwamedh Ghat where the evening Aarti services were being held.  The area was festooned with thousands of strands of lights.
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There were a number of priest performing the ceremony along the Ghat with hundreds (or thousands) of devotees looking on.  
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Plus there were dozens of tour boats jockeying for position in the water just off the Ghat.  In true “Traveling with Tara” fashion our boatman kept maneuvering until we were almost in front and able to get some good views of the ceremony.  Many oil or ghee lamps were light and there was much chanting and playing of instruments. 
Then we headed off further down the river to another Ghat where there was a cultural festival in progress.  We watched at dancer for a while.  
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On the way out Jessica noticed that the kids play area was set up just like those in the US...with bouncy rides. 
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Back at the hotel we discovered another wedding just getting started.
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